Okra - Growing Okra in the Backyard Vegetable Garden

Okra is grow for its long, pointed seed pods, which are used in gumbos and soups. Okra is in the same family as cotton, hollyhocks and hibiscus. Its flowers resemble hibiscus and okra makes a nice ornamental plant as well.

Abelmoschus esculentus

Common Name:

Okra, Gumbo, Ladyfinger, Bhindi

USDA Hardiness Zone Annual

Okra plants can reach 4+ feet tall or be topped and grown shorter. If given room to branch out, they can spread 3 feet wide.

50 - 60 days. Warmer climates will get a 2nd harvest.

Okra is a tropical plant that is grown as an annual vegetable. The seed pods are especially useful for thickening stews because of their gummy mucilage. Okra plants are extremely drought and heat resistant and okra is a popular vegetable in many countries with difficult growing conditions.

• Leaves: Palmate with 5-7 lobes
• Flowers: Yellow or white, sometimes with a reddish-purple base. 5 petals.

[Note: Okra varieties that are labeled spineless, are less irritating, but not completely spine-free.]

• 'Annie Oakley' - Nice Yield. Hybrid. 3-4'

• 'Burgundy' - Burgundy pods (Lose some color with cooking). Heirloom. 4'

• 'Clemson Spineless' - Good flavor. Heirloom. 4-5'

• 'Emerald' - Long pods (7-9"). Spineles. Heirloom. 4'

• 'White Velvet' - Tender, white pods. Heirloom. 5'

Okra is fairly problem free and most problems affect only the leaves, not the pods.

Aphids and stink bugs may attack the plants. Keep an eye out and spray off or hand remove before the problem grows.

Okra does best in rich, well-draining soil. It's not particular about soil pH (6.5 - 7.5), but it won’t thrive in heavy, soggy soils.

Planting Okra: Okra seeds are large and easy to handle. Some gardeners like to pre-soak their seeds the night before planting, but you should get good germination if you keep the soil moist until the plants break through.

Okra can be direct sown or started indoors and transplanted. Starting seedlings in peat pots will lessen transplant shock. Start indoor seeds 6-8 weeks before transplant date.

In colder climates, wait until the weather is reliably warm, about 2 weeks after your last expected frost date, before transplanting outdoors. Okra is a heat lover. It kicks into gear when temperatures reach 80 degrees F. and still grows strong when it climbs into the 90s.

Direct sow seed 1" deep and 4-8" apart. Space rows 3' apart. Okra plants can get large and branched. Thin to 18-24", when seedlings are 4-6" tall, to give the plants room to branch. Crowding will result in thin plants with few fruits.

Maintenance:

If you have rich, organic soil, you won't need supplemental fertilizer. However side dressing with manure or foliage feeding with a seaweed/fish fertilizer will supply some extra fuel.

Water: Once okra plants are established, they can handle brief dry spells. For best yield, water well at least every 7-10 days.

Most okra varieties are open pollinated and pods left on to mature and dry can be harvested for their seeds.

Harvesting: Okra

Okra plants are not pleasant to touch. Whether the spines are pronounced or hair-like, they are scratchy and irritating. Gloves and long sleeves help. It’s also easier to harvest with a pruner, rather than pulling and getting the spines in your fingers.

Okra is best when picked young. The fruits are their most tender when they’re 2-4"" long and as wide as a pinkie. Okra can grow in the blink of an eye and usually reaches this size within 6 days of flowering. As okra pods get larger, they become stringy and tough. However if growing conditions are good, even larger okra can still be tender and edible. Test for tenderness by snapping off the end of a pod. If it snaps, it hasn’t become touch and fibrous yet and should still be good for eating. If not, it makes a nice addition to a flower arrangement. As with most vegetables, okra is at its peak when freshly picked. Pods can be stored in the refrigerator for about 1 week or frozen, canned or pickled.