How to Prune an Apple Tree in 7 Simple Steps

Pruned apple tree with vertical growing branches and red apples hanging

The Spruce / K. Dave

Project Overview
  • Working Time: 2 - 4 hrs
  • Total Time: 2 - 4 hrs
  • Skill Level: Intermediate
  • Estimated Cost: $0 to $75 (if tool purchase is needed)

If an apple tree is left unpruned for too long, it becomes overgrown, and as a result, the tree's vigor will be affected, along with its fruit production. A healthy apple tree—much like a peach tree or many other fruit trees—is not one with extremely dense branches and foliage but instead one that has plenty of space and light between the branches.

Faced with a badly overgrown tree, many gardeners fear the restoration will be complicated and are apprehensive about tackling the task. But take heart—it is almost impossible to kill a mature, overgrown apple tree by pruning it. The most complicated pruning takes place in the first three years of an apple tree's life and after this, pruning becomes a pretty easy task. The rewards of a comprehensive pruning job will be better fruit output and a much healthier tree.

When to Prune an Apple Tree

Pruning is best done in late winter while the tree is dormant, or in the early spring before new growth has begun. If possible, avoid pruning in the summer and fall, as this stimulates new, sensitive growth that may be vulnerable to insect attack and winter damage. However, clearly diseased or damaged branches should be removed whenever you spot them.

Mature apple trees will tell you when they need rigorous pruning because the fruit output begins to diminish. Removing suckers and bad wood through heavy pruning stimulates the tree to produce more fruiting spurs. Pruning also opens up the branches so sunlight and air can reach the ripening fruit.

Commercial growers perform some form of pruning on an apple tree almost every year, but for homeowners, a mature tree should be fine if it is hard-pruned every three years or so.

Tip

In late May or early June, about 20 to 40 days after the blooms, apple trees typically begin dropping immature fruits. It is a good idea to thin out some of the remaining immature fruit at that point. Pinching off one-third to one-half allows the tree to produce larger apples.

Before Getting Started

Make sure your pruning tools are good and sharp before starting. Struggling to cut with dull tools can lead to accidents on a ladder. Apple trees are spiny, prickly trees that easily pierce your skin, so make sure to wear work gloves, long sleeves, and long trousers while working.

Removing vs. Shortening Branches

The pruning technique varies depending on whether you are removing a branch or just shortening it.

A common approach when pruning out an entire branch is to cut back to the collar of the branch, slightly away from the trunk, and then trim along the outer edge of the collar.

However, if you are merely shortening a branch, prune to an outward-facing bud—one that is directed away from the neighboring branch. Cutting just above an outward-facing bud will encourage it to sprout a new branch that will grow out and away from the other existing branch. Avoid cutting above an inward-facing bud, as it may encourage the growth of a new branch that crosses or shades the existing inner branch so it will have to be removed eventually.

What You'll Need

Equipment / Tools

  • Pruning shears
  • Lopping shears or saw for larger branches
  • Ladder
  • Heavy-duty gloves
  • Protective gear (safety glasses, hardhat)

Materials

  • Debris sacks

Instructions

Materials and tools to prune an overgrown apple tree

The Spruce / K. Dave

How to Prune an Apple Tree

  1. Remove Bad Branches

    Start by removing any dead, damaged, or diseased branches. The dead wood will be dark or brittle, often with the bark falling away and diseased wood is usually a different color than the other branches.

    An open wound on a branch is an invitation to insects and further disease, so you should prune out dead and injured wood at any time of the year.

    Dead branches from overgrown apple tree cut with bright green loppers

    The Spruce / K. Dave

  2. Remove Suckers

    Woody plants are often pruned with the goal of encouraging more growth, but not all growth is welcome. Suckers (branches growing from the base of the tree), whorls (branches that grow from and encircle another branch), and water sprouts (thin branches that usually grow straight upright) are never going to bear fruit—they just sap energy from the plant. Removing these extraneous shoots early in the pruning process will also help you better see the structure of the tree, making it easier to see where further cuts are necessary.

    Apple tree suckers cut near soil with bright green loppers

    The Spruce / K. Dave

  3. Remove Low Branches

    Get rid of any branches within about 4 feet of the ground. They'll probably be too shaded to produce any apples, and low-hanging branches just invite deer and other animals to nibble.

    Lower branches of overgrown apple tree cut with bright green loppers

    The Spruce / K. Dave

  4. Remove Problem Branches

    Now, prune out any downward-facing branches. They, too, will be shaded and unproductive.

    Next, focus on removing any branches that cross or rub against larger branches. As these grow, they will get thicker and heavier, so get rid of them now before they do damage to the "scaffold" branches that form the main shape of the tree.

    Downward facing branches cut from apple tree with loppers

    The Spruce / K. Dave

  5. Remove Competing Main Branches

    Step back, and view the tree again. It should have one main vertical leader or central trunk. The leader may be a bit curved if the tree wasn't staked as it grew, or if was bent by the wind. There is nothing wrong with this, but major side branches extending from the leader will have to go. If they are left, they will become competing branches that will distort the shape and openness of the tree. Prune them back flush to the main leader.

    Competing main branch on top part of apple tree cut off with loppers

    The Spruce / K. Dave

  6. Clear Out the Clutter

    Now, focus on thinning out the interior branches so that sunlight can reach all of the fruits, and so that each branch sits at a nice, strong angle greater than 45 degrees from the leader. Be ruthless in this operation, but it's best not to remove more than about one-third of the tree's total mass if it's been neglected. If a tree is regularly pruned, removing about one-fifth in each session is acceptable.

    Interior branches thinned out from apple tree with loppers

    The Spruce / K. Dave

  7. Inspect the Tree

    Finally, make sure that the upper branches are shorter than the lower branches. The final result should look like a pyramid with well-spaced horizontal branches. There is truth to the old adage that tells us a bird should be able to fly through the apple tree without its wings touching a branch.

    The results may look extreme when finished, but the tree will soon bear healthier fruit and be easier to harvest as a result.

FAQ
  • What are common apple tree diseases and pests?

    The four most common apple tree diseases include apple scab, powdery mildew, cedar-quince rust, which are all fungal diseases, and Phytophthora, a disease that attacks the roots and trunks of apple trees and causes crown, collar, and root rot.

  • What type of apple trees are easiest to grow?

    Kidd's Orange Red and Fuji are considered some of the easiest apple varieties to grow. Easy varieties for warmer climates (USDA zone 5-10) are Anna and Beverly Hills. In terms of size, dwarf apple trees are the easiest for backyard gardens because they grow to a maximum height of 8 to 10 feet.

  • When is the best time to prune?

    The best time to prune apple trees is during their dormancy in late water or early spring just before the new growth begins. Wait until the coldest winter weather is over so the freshly cut pruning wounds on the tree are not exposed to icy temperatures.

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  1. Growing Apples in the Home Garden. University of Minnesota Extension.