Even if you've never heard of blossom end rot, you've probably seen it on your tomatoes. It's one of the most common tomato growing problems out there. It's also one of the most annoying, because the rotting doesn't show up until the tomato starts to ripen and by then, it's too late to do much about it. Unfortunately our recent weather pattern of deluge to drought is the perfect combination for it to occur. The emails asking about it are already starting to pour in.
You can't save the tomatoes already affected, but you can take steps to keep it from occurring. Blossom end rot is often blamed on a lack of calcium, but other factors are also involved. So before you reach for the lime, now is a good time to talk about preventing blossom end rot.
Learn More: Blossom Drop | Tomatoes Cracking | Green Shoulders
Photo: © Marie Iannotti
Comments
I think we should choose tomato species with a 50-60 days period of duration to grow…
That is a valid personal preference but other things may also be considered. Most short day tomatoes are of the smaller (2 oz) types of tomatoes, early girl, 4th of July. I personally prefer the larger types of tomatoes like the one or two lb tomatoes. I personally prefer the Goliath a 12 to 16 oz type and really love the Porterhouse a 2 lb variety. They just make a better tomato sandwich (BLT), a 2 pounder is even better than a one pounder for this.
you never answered the question. Is lime good for your tomatoes or not?
That all depends upon several factors. Being where you live and the natural or current pH of you soil. Lime is CaO (calcium oxide). While the calcium may be good for the tomatoes there is not a blanket answer. Where I live in the high desert it is best that we use gypsum (CaSo4 or calcium sulfate) which will not only provide the calcium but also the sulfur to help lower our natural high pH. Raising the pH of our ground to an intolerable level would be devastating to the plants. If you live in an area where the pH is naturally low (where it rains a whole bunch) then lime may be what you need. It all depends upon the pH of the soil that you currently have.
Find out your current pH by either a pH meter (available at any plant nursery) or send the soil to a lab for analysis. This can be done through the co-op extensions service in your area. If you have an ideal pH then apply 1/2 cup of gypsum around each plant and water in well. Gypsum is extremely cheap sell at around $5 for a 50 lb bag in our area. If you have a lower pH add the lime but be careful not to overdo it and add to much to make the pH to high.
Yes, if your soil has a high pH.
What was said, between the Forum thread link and the blossom end rot link, is that if your soil pH is excessively high, your tomatoes may not be able to access the calcium already in your soil and that could result in blossom end rot and other problems.
However, not every tomato that gets blossom end rot got it because of a lack of calcium in the soil. The soil could be a neutral pH and have plenty of calcium, but insufficient water kept the calcium from traveling all the way to the fruits.
So, lime can be good for tomatoes that are growing in soil that needs a pH adjustment, but simply adding lime is not the answer to blossom end rot. I hope that’s clearer.
When using lime on my tomato plantings, I just mix a couple of tablespoons in the soil around each plant being careful not to get close to the root ball, as lime can burn plant material when in direct contact. When doing this, I have never had blossom end rot. If I forget to do it, I always get some.
I have a problem getting my tomato bushs bear tomatoes.The bushes are large , strong and healthy, and even bear buds but they fall off and no fruit. Last year my tomato bushes grew in excess of twelve feet but again, no tomatoes. I changed my gardening area this year but the same problem. The rest of my garden does fantastic, just the tomatoes. Help!!!
Sounds like a temperature problem..what growing zone are you located.? Tomatoes do not rely on bees for pollination.
Keep first number 10and below second higher than first . Always use Epsom salts.
Tomato varieties are bothered by high temps during blossom &fruit set
If you have such luscious vines and no fruit your most likely problems is too much nitrogen. If you will notice the analysis of the fertilizers that are commercially designed for tomatoes they are higher in the last two numbers the phosphorus and the potash while being lower in the nitrogen. Try changing to a fertilizer that is lower in nitrogen. Say something on the order of 6-16-20 or so. Just remember to keep the first number lower.
Sonny, that’s a popular question this year. Tomatoes drop there blossoms for a handful of reasons, often temperature extremes or a lack of bees and pollinators. But I think the most common cause is too much fertilizer. It’s tempting to keep feeding them, to coax them into flowering, but that often defeats your purpose. They just wind up growing more leaves.
Make sure whatever fertilizer you use has a higher middle number, phosphorous – for flowering. And ease up on it, until you start to see some tomatoes forming.
Put one Table spoon of Epsom salt in the hole when you plant tomatoes this while help bottom end rot
A new trick I learned is to put a tums with the plan. End rot is usually a calcium deficiency and Tums are calcium carbonate.