Why Test Your Soil
I received an email the other day from a gardener who wanted to know what's the best way to test soil and for what does it really need to be tested.
It's a good idea to test your soil pH every couple of years, more often if you are trying to correct it. The reason everyone harps on pH is that if the soil pH is too alkaline or acidic, your plants won't be able to access any of the nutrients in the soil, no matter how rich your soil is or how much you feed them. Most plants prefer a neutral pH of around 6.3 to 7.0, but some plants actually prefer the extremes (like blueberries), so check on the pH for what you are growing.
You can buy a pH kit from most garden centers or you can have Cooperative Extension test it for you, usually for a nominal fee. Some garden centers also provide this service.
You could also have your soil tested for assorted other essential nutrients. You usually need to send a soil sample out to a lab for this. Again, Cooperative Extension provides this service. They will send you back results and recommendations for the phosphorous, potassium, magnesium, etc. in your soil. This is good information, but not essential unless you are having problems or growing commercially. If you've been adding organic matter to your soil, it is probably fine.
Out of curiosity, how many of you do test your soil? (Click any answers that apply.)
Poll: Do You Have Your Soil Tested?
- Yes, for the vegetable garden
- Yes, for the flower beds
- Yes, for the lawn
- Every once in awhile
- Every year
- Never
- Just for pH
- View Results
Comments
I have a question.
We planted a new garden last summer. The soil is quite sandy. Everything started up quite nicely and then certain plants such as our tomatoes started to dies and so did the rhubarb that we transplanted. There are walnut trees close by. Would their roots be a problem? We have not tested the soil.
Thankyou!
I garden in 55gal plastic drums which are cut in half & holes drilled in bottoms. I have used them for over 10 years now, growing 5 or more types of tomatoes, ditto peppers, also okra, beans, lettuce, spinach, etc. etc. and flowers. But I have 60 of them! Testing the soil for this many would be most prohibitative. Any suggestions?
WE have about 3 acres of lawn and in the past two years we are experiencing terrible levels of mole infestation. I was told if we kill the grubs we’ll lose the moles but we have a point well and septic system so i am afraid to use poisons…or fertilizers for that matter…what can i do to get rid of the moles without poisoning us, our dog and the birds? 5/6/06
Black walnuts are really hard to grow near. According to Ohio State Extension, “toxic zone from a mature tree occurs on average in a 50 to 60 foot radius from the trunk, but can be up to 80 feet.” Only these vegetables have been seen growing successfully nearby: Squashes, Melons, Beans, Carrots, Corn. You can check out the whole list here: http://ohioline.osu.edu/hyg-fact/1000/1148.html. Maybe you’ll find something you like and can grow. Otherwise do as Lou does and grow your plants in large containers.
Marie–
Hi Lou,
You definitely need your own testing kid. I’d test them in rotation, maybe 3-5 barrels each year or a couple in the spring and a couple in the fall. Start with any that don’t seem to be producing great plants.
Marie–
Hi Martha,
I have an awful mole problem too and very few grubs in the lawn. I’ve been told by researchers that while moles do love grubs, they enjoy a diverse diet and will find other insects to eat if there are no grubs. I think the companies producing grub control products have over played the connection.
They seem to favor sandy soil and like it when the soil is moist. About the only really effective mole product out there is the mole spring trap that you poke into their tunnel. Not pleasant to think about, but everything else just deters them temporarily. I would place it out at night, when you dog is indoors. Again from Ohio State, my favorite Extension for fact sheets, here’s some more detailed information about mole’s habits and possible deterrents like castor oil and whirlly gigs.
My County Extension Service has started charging big $$$ for testing soil samples. Are there any soil tests that I can do with common household ingredients ?
Hi Dan,
The Frugal Living Guide has some suggestions for testing pH with vinegar and baking soda. It can’t tell you your specific pH, but it will tell you if you’re alkaline or acidic.
If you test often, it might be worth buying your own kit. You can usually get one for $10 – $20.
After spending just a few weeks scratching my head,wondering why my early season veggies looked so limb and sick;I purchased a few of those do-it-yourself soil test kits.
It showed my garden soil as being VERY HIGH in alkaline…hmmm…living in a floodplain had alot to do with it.
Repeated spring time heavy rains,a low lieing garden and a nearby overflowing creek contributed to the high alkaline levels.
I raised the level of the garden with more soil,composted materials,natural manures and improved my drainage…I’m pooped!
I got to thinking some people don’t know the history of their yard. Previous owners might’ve used all kinds of poisons, which could still be in the soil.
That’s probably very true. Luckily most toxins are diluted and dissipated over time. But you can never be sure. There are a lot of old orchards in my area and people love to buy property near them, not realizing apples are one of the most sprayed and treated crops around.
Yes! The walnuts are putting out a toxin affecting your garden..
Hello, Very nice site. Universe help us, dont worry man.